By HILARY MACASKILL High glamour: In 1894 the Pera Palace was the most luxurious hotel in Istanbul, after a revamp it is back to its bestAs we arrived in the colonnaded marble hall, a flock of greeters in dove-grey uniforms swooped on us, murmuring 'Welcome to Pera Palace'. It was a greeting that had been a long time coming - the keenly anticipated but regularly delayed reopening of Turkey's