A river runs through it: Lyons, Arles and the joys of southern France on a Rhone cruise

By CAROLINE HENDRIE Arles be back: The first century Roman amphitheare in Arles is one of the highlights of the Rhone valleyOne minute, ten thousand golden sunflowers were nodding gently at me from their field, the next a flurry of white doves landed on the ramparts of a fortress. The early-morning views from my bed were so entrancing it was hard to get up. Then, suddenly, I was plunged into